Tiling a nation – you cannot miss the azulejos everywhere you go in Portugal. Tiles with different motifs using different techniques form part of the country’s architecture. You can see them in palaces, churches, fountains, government buildings. They decorate train and Metro stations as well as hospital walls.
The word ‘azulejo’ is thought to have been introduced from the Moorish word ‘azzelij’. Defined as a square ceramic tile it has a glazed surface on one side. The technique and the word came into Portugal from Moorish Spain in the 15th century. Imported from Seville and Valencia it arrived as well from Italy, Holland and England. It was ceramicists from Flanders who were the main influence on the Iberian Peninsular.
Tiles in churches, monasteries, palaces
One of the many beautiful tile panels seen in the Monastery S. Vicente de Fora, Largo São Vicente, Lisbon, above and below.
You can see panels in all churches. They are in the Church of St Anthony Estoril, Church of N. S. de Navegantes and Church of Assumption in Cascais. The Cascais Town Hall shows some panels on its façade.
Sintra’s National (Royal) Place has a variety of azulejos in its various rooms, mostly dating to the 16th century. Some of them are rare and represent some of the oldest techniques used in the country. The azulejos in the Arab Room are geometric in design. The Mermaid Room has tiles with vine leaf motifs whilst the Magpie Room has star shapes. The Swan Room has tiles with diagonal designs.
In Oeiras the Palácio do Marquês de Pombal shows the white and blue tiles, traditional to Portugal. These depict mythological scenes dating from 1760 to 1770. The National Palace in Queluz holds tiles with varying scenes continuing the tradition of tiling a nation.
The National Tile Museum in Lisbon
For the enthusiast a visit to the National Tile Museum (Museu Nacional do Azulejo) in Rua Madre de Deus is a must. It has a rich collection of tiles. These include the first types produced in this country as well as those imported. An addition to the museum is the panel by Vieira da Silva and also works by other local artists.
The Museum is located in the former Convent of Madre de Deus. It was built during the reign of Queen Leonor (1458 to 1525). It was not until 1980 that it became the National Tile Museum. João Miguel dos Santos Simões (1907-1972) was an assistant curator at the Museum of Ancient Art. Later he was appointed as head of the Tile Museum. He was an authority on azulejos and had done extensive research with many articles and books published on the subject.
The panel Retable of Our Lady of Life (Nossa Senhora da Vida), above, by Marçal de Matos c. 1580 consists of 1,384 tiles measuring 5 metres by 4.65 metres. It came from the former Church of St. Andrew’s in Lisbon. It depicts St Luke, Adoration of Shepherds and the Annunciation.
There is a coffee shop /restaurant with outdoor seating, foto left, on the ground floor of the Museum and also a gift shop. Adjoining the Museum is a Church, foto right, with its beautifully decorated paintings, panels, and tiles.
There is still a demand for azulejos today. Some factories produce handpainted tiles. The Fabrica Ceramica Viuva do Lamego in Abrunheira, Sintra area, is one of the well-known ones. Tiling a nation with decorative azulejos continues in the country’s architecture today.
By Pat Rodrigues