Saint Anthony – Patron Saint of Lisbon – 13th June Feast Day
The spirit of Santo Antonio, Lisbon’s Patrons saint, invades the city every year on 13th June. One of Lisboa’s most eagerly awaited festivals is the Festas dos Santos Populares. The Portuguese capital celebrates this as the Festival of Santo António. For two days in June, 12th and 13th, the city forgets itself. Lisboetas everywhere honour their adopted patron saint. Saint Vincent is the true patron saint of Lisbon but possibly because he was Spanish he was forgotten.
An overwhelming feeling of goodwill pervades the narrow alleyways and winding footpaths of the ancient neighbourhood of Alfama. The districts of Castelo, Bica, Graça and the patchwork Bairro Alto join these festivities. Work grinds to a halt as people get into the spirit of Saint Anthony.
Preparing for the event
Evidence of laborious preparation is everywhere. Multicoloured paper lanterns and streamers festoon balconies and walls and snake up lamp-posts. Squeezed onto cobbled pavements are rows of squat, weathered benches. Behind them sit weathered women selling manjericos – tiny pots of basil. Rubbing the leaves together releases the aroma of the basil. Legend has it that to try and smell it using just your nose will bring bad luck! Attached to the shrub is a folded note hiding an ancient rhyme. It is the citizens themselves who reflect the passion of the occasion.
The Marchas Populares
Lisboa’s Avenida da Liberdade, closed to traffic, becomes a dazzling parade on the evening of June 12. This is the venue for the spectacular annual marchas populares. It is along this historic thoroughfare that the party truly begins.
Residents from Lisbon’s old bairros – the neighborhoods, make up the procession. Each wears elaborate costumes in a proud display of colourful flamboyance. Groups of hardy souls hoist aloft huge animated frescos depicting colloquial symbolism and scenes plucked from local folklore. It’s vibrant, enchanting street theatre employs young and old alike. The participant with the best costume is wins a prize. Hundreds take part.
The Festas – Sardines and Sangria
The old Moorish quarter of Alfama heaves with bodies eager to join the mêlée. Tumbling façades and picturesque, whitewashed churches resemble a postcard image from bygone days. In the spirit of Santo Antonio people will greet you in the streets with a cheer and a beer.
Sprawling terraces and tiny alcoves are all commandeered as surrogate tavernas to supply the demand. All around there is the sizzling aroma of grilled sardines and barbecued pork. The sweet infusion of deep fried farturas, a kind of swirling doughnut, permeates the air. Overflowing jars of potent sangria are permanently on hand to chase it all down. The whole population seems to descend on this smudge of land to soak up the spirit of Sto Antonio.
The life of the Saint
Who was St Anthony, and why does he play such an important role in the lives of everyday folk? St Anthony of Padua was born in Lisbon on 15 August 1195 although some records show it as 1191. He joined the Franciscan order in 1220. A learned and passionate preacher the friar became renowned for his devotion to the poor and ability to convert heretics. Numerous statues and paintings depict him carrying the Infant Jesus on a book. Others show him preaching to the fishes.
St Anthony’s church (left) was built in the 18th century. The site it is believed, is the house where he was born. The 1755 earthquake destroyed the church. Two years after this work started on building a new church. The construction was partly funded by donations which were collected by the local children. They would cry ‘tostaozinhos para o Santo António’ – a small coin for Santo Antonio Anthony! At the beginning of June children continue with this tradition.
The friar died in Padua, Italy, on 13th June 1231. In May 1232 he was canonized as St Anthony.
The Weddings of St Anthony
Through the ages St Anthony has become associated with fertility rites. Legend has it that youngsters would burn artichokes to find out the identity of their future lovers. They hoped to gain the saint’s blessing.
The Lisboa authorities, from the 1950s onwards, selected engaged couples with limited resources. This was with the dictator Salazar’s blessing. The couples were encouraged to get married in a collective ceremony in St Anthony’s church. The practice ended with the revolution in 1974. Reintroduced in recent years the practice is considered today an essential part of the festivities.
After indulgence of the previous night a distinctly solemn tone descends over the city. A far more dignified procession begins to thread its way from St Anthony’s church around midday. It meanders through the confined environs of Alfama. A statue of the saint carrying the Infant Jesus stands on a garland of flowers. It heads a cortege of clergy, civic dignitaries and local officials. Subdued onlookers toss more flowers from balconies. Others, in a touching gesture, place effigies and candles on doorsteps and in hallways as a mark of respect.
The 13th June is a municipal holiday in the district of Lisbon as well as the Estoril Coast as people celebrate the spirit of Santo Antonio.
For many, this is an occasion for reflection, prayer and atonement.
Article By Paul Bernhardt
Fotos by Pat Rodrigues