Lisboa has several  bars  specialising in ginjinha – the morello cherry brandy.

The Ginjinha drink

Ginjinha from a bottle is available  in  any  bar. Around Rossio in Lisbon  several bars serve draught ginjinha from the decanter.

Traditionally, you should drink it in a single gulp, like shooters in American bars.  Taking modest sips is the best way to appreciate the flavour of ginginha.  A local belief is that it is good for the chest and digestion.

Ginjinha is a pungent liquor. The taste is sweet but not sugary. Its slow burning fuse only begins when it warms the belly.  Made by steeping the bitter morello cherries in a mixture of aguardente (colourless brandy) and sugar. The result – a deep red liquor varying from 23% to 25% proof alcohol.

The bars specialising in ginjinha serve it “com” (with) or “sem” (without) the morello cherries. You get a surprising but not unpleasant bitter taste. This kills some of the sweetness in the mouth.

Ginjinha Bars Lisbon

The most famous and popular bar selling ginjinha in Lisbon is A Ginjinha, in the Largo de São Domingos. This is to the right of the theatre Dona Maria II.  It is said to have opened in 1840 although the painted panels extolling the virtues of the drink are more recent. They probably date from the 1920s or 1930s.

Twenty yards along the Rua de Barros Queiros, No. 27, stands Ginjinha – Rubi.

The  Ginjinha Sem Rival is  in the Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, No. 7, on the left side up this pedestrian-only street, about 20 yards from A Ginjinha.

Further up the road at No. 65 is the Ginjinha Popular although this one is easily missed but it has seating outside and also serves meals.

The other Ginginha Rubi  is on the right side at the bottom of the Elevador de Gloria. It is another small doorway bar and located in the Avenida da Liberdade, in the Restauradores area, a short walking distance from the Largo de São Domingos.

Article by Steve English

Fotos by Pat Rodrigues