ONE OF THE MOST popular excursions out of Lisbon is to the Queluz Royal Palace – Palácio Nacional de Queluz. This was the historic summer residence of the kings and queens of Portugal.
History of Palace
The palace’s colourful history stretches back to the middle of the 17th century. Originally it was a manor house and hunting lodge for D. Cristóvão de Moura. He was the first Marquis of Castelo Rodrigo. The restoration of the Portuguese monarchy took place in 1640 with the acession of the Duque of Braganza. Moura’s property was seized and incorporated into the assets of the Casa do Infantado which was created in 1645 by Royal Charter of D. João IV.
In 1747, Prince D. Pedro, the younger son of D. João V, commissioned Mateus Vicente de Oliveira to transform the modest Quinta de Queluz into a sumptuous Rococo summer palace. In 1752 work on the central section of the palace was completed. This included a chapel and music room. After Pedro’s marriage in 1760 to his niece, the future Maria I, the palace was extended.
The French architect Jean-Baptiste Robillion played an important role in the second phase of the extension. He added the west wing, the Robillion Pavilion and the gardens. Robbilion and his team undertook the decoration of the three main rooms. The team consisted of elite Portuguese and foreign artists and craftsmen. The rooms were the Throne Room, the Ambassador’s Room and the Music Room.
The Lion’s Staircase
Robillion’s architectural dilemma of how to link the lower gardens with the palace was solved by building the Lion’s Staircase. It is down these graceful steps that one descends to reach the azulejo-lined (tiled) canal. On warm summer evenings the royal family and guests went boating here.
The former azulejo lined canal
The Gardens
The gardens are a natural extension to the palace. The Garden of Malta, which takes its name from the Order of Malta of which D. Pedro II was the Grand Master, was originally a lake. Called the Laurel Cherry Garden it received this name from the trees imported from the Netherlands in 1758. Built over a water reservoir with Neptune’s Fountain as a reference point are Robillion’s Hanging Gardens. Stone balustrades decorated with lead statues and intricate sculpture bind both gardens. The Gateway of Fame, a statue of Pegasus bearing Heroic Fame, is the point from which the main avenues of the gardens radiate.
Concerts, opera, and equestrian shows and firework displays were held in this Palace. From 1794, the Prince Regent, D. João VI and D. Carlota Joaquina were in permanent residence – along with their nine children. In 1807 the royal family swiftly departed to Brazil in the wake of the French invasions. This closed the most illustrious cycle of the palace’s history. The Court returned in 1821. Queluz was home now to just Queen Carlota Joaquina, languishing in semi-exile and accompanied by her sister-in-law, princess Francisca Benedita.
The Rooms
Dom Quixote Chamber
King D. Miguel was living at Queluz Royal Palace at the time of the war against D. Pedro IV, first emperor of Brazil. Pedro died prematurely at the palace in the room (left) known as the Don Quixote Chamber. The name reflects the wall paintings by Manuel da Costa depicting the story of Cervantes’ hero. This Chamber is one of the highlights of the tour you can make of the interior.
Throne Room
Other star features include the Throne Room and the elegant State Room, dating from 1770.
Sala dos Embaixadores
Formal events were held in the room known as Ambassador’s Room (Sala dos Embaixadores). The magnificient trompe l’oeil ceiling depicts the royal family attending a concert.
Music Room
The cavernous Music Room where Maria I’s orchestra performed, conjures up images of swirling ball gowns and gentlemen-in-waiting. Original period instruments are on display.
The Decorative Arts – furniture, Arraiolos Rugs
The palace is home to a valuable collection of decorative arts. Here you can see Portuguese furniture, Arraiolos rugs, portraits, and Chinese and European porcelain and silverware. Most of the pieces are from the Royal Collections. You can see decorations of gilt woodcarvings and painted wall canvases in the various rooms and chambers. They are from Rococo to the neo-classical.
The exquisite paintings, furniture, portraits, tapestries can be seen in the many rooms of the Palace
Today, the only part of the Queluz Royal Palace functioning in any official capacity is the D. Maria Pavilion, attached to the east wing of the palace.
The Clock Tower Building opposite dates from the turn of the century. Used for storing napery and housing palace staff in the past it is now an elegant Pousada.
The Queluz National Palace is open daily from 9am to 6pm. In the winter closing time is at 5.30pm. It will take at least an hour to view the Palace and gardens.
Largo Palacio de Queluz, Queluz.
Article By Paul Bernhardt
Photos by Pat Rodrigues