


	LISBON WAKES up after midnight and only the fittest survive. The city boasts innumerable bars, taverns, cafés and nightclubs with each one catering to a plethora of taste, style and depth of pocket. Bairro Alto continues to attract the world with its maze of narrow alleys crammed with a diverse array of watering holes, restaurants and discos. At Captain Kirk, Rua do Norte 21, the rhythm depends on the DJ. Beam down and check out the bar staff and their Tom Cruise cocktail shaker maker impressions. The atmosphere at Targus, Rua Diário de Notícias 40B, is noticeably quieter. The music complements the chit-chat and light meals are available. A magnet for writers and journalists. Expanding the bookish theme Café Geronte, Travessa da Boa Hora 5, is a great place to read with dozens of books stacked up on a floor-to-ceiling shelves. Soft background music and an interesting menu makes this place a must for late dinner with good company. The unpretentious Os Três Pastorinhos, Rua da Barroca 111/113, treads the line between dance and middle-of-the-road music. A small club, its intimate interior heaves at the weekend. Not exactly a club but still a joint worth exploring, A Outra Face da Lua, Rua da Barroca 95, is a friendly new Dutch/Portuguese smartshop selling teas from around the world, plus clothing and Amsterdam paraphernalia. There's also a paint tattoo service. For a variation on the same theme, head towards the Bica area and call in a WIP - Work In Progress, Rua Bica Duarte Belo 47/49. It's not only a cool bar but a clothes shop and hairdresser's to boot. Ask for a tint with your beer! Moving on from Bairro Alto, if your tastes are more colonial one of the best African clubs is B.Leza, Largo Conde Barão 50-2º. Housed in a turn-of-the century ball room, live music captures the spirit of African rhythm perfectly. Another good bet is the Ritz Club, Rua da Glória 57. Originally a brothel, the building was turned into a cabaret hall and eventually a live venue for predominantly Cape Verdean musicians. Great at weekends. If you prefer to cha-cha-cha, saunté towards Salsa Latina, Cais de Alcântara. Live Latin brass with sass emanates from this riverfront restaurant/club and if you really want to dance, why not indulge in a free Salsa lesson during the week. Ask the staff for details. The clubs and bars hugging Lisbon's Avenida 24 de Julho are still among the best if you're a paid-up techno freak. Still the most famous are the two "Ks" - Kapital and Kremlin. At Kapital, Av 24 de Julho 68, only the seriously trendly need apply. Crammed full of bright young things on dangerously high heels (and that's just the guys), a night in this club is not cheap - that's presuming you get past the penguins on the door. But if it's your scene, there's no better view. Next door round the corner, Kremlin, Rua Escadinhas da Praia 5, rivals the opposition with throngs of flashy Lisboetas eager to see, and to be seen. Again, a tough door policy means only fashion victims survive the men in black. Continue along Avenida 24 de Julho if you prefer to be noticed in Alcantâra Café, Rua Maria Luisa Holstein 15. A carvernous bar decorated in gilt and crimson with a metallic finish, a dinner here with all the trimmings can make your wallet cry but for a special occasion it's hard to beat. Most people start their evenings here before moving to the equally gaudy Alcantara-Mar, Rua da Cozinha Económica 11. Perhaps the house-techno nightspot, this place doesn't even begin to fill up until three in the mornings. Chandeliers, candelabra and a relentless thud do battle with the senses. For diehards only. The nearby Doca de Santo Amaro is also known as the Docas Zone , a series of old warehouses converted into bars tavernas and restaurants which skirt the boardwalk and reviewed in detail in a previous edition of the Estoril Coast Magazine. During the summer extra currular attractions include evening fashion shows, firework displays and special promotional nights, usually surrounding the launch of a new drink - or the re-launch of an old one! To sample a more traditional flavour of Lisbon nightlife, book a table at one of the city's typical restaurants. Fado, meaning destiny or fate, is a musical expression of longing and sorrow (saudade). The haunting strains of this poignant music, sung by fadistas with melody supplied by the Portuguese guitarra and rhythm accompaniment by a viola, can be best heard at special fado houses. One of the most traditional is Parreirinha de Alfama, Beco do Espírito Santo 1. Another is the equally famous Senhor Vinho , on the other side of the city at Rua do Meio à Lapa 18. Arguably the oldest fado house, Luso, can be found back in Bairro Alto at Travessa da Queimada 10. In existence since the early 1930s, its distinct bright red neon sign is a landmark among the steep cobbled streets. Weekend jazz sessions can also be enjoyed at Luso but nothing compares with the Hot Club de Portugal, Praça da Alegria. A tiny basement bar with a grand history, the Club hosts local and international artists. Can be very busy during the weekends but try midweek; entrance is free and off-the-cuff jam sessions are open to anyone who can play. Enjoy the night!